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Piccadilly line

Light fantasticThere are some Underground stations that look better in the dark.

Not that they aren’t attractive or intriguing when seen in daylight. Rather their qualities take on added appeal when the sun has set and electric lights are switched on. Caledonian Road is just such a station.

It’s the first one I’ve mentioned on this blog to have been designed by Leslie Green, architect of well over two dozen Underground buildings, all built in the first decade of the 20th century, and all bearing certain signature elements: two storeys, semi-circular windows, patterned tiles on the inside, and hundreds upon hundreds of ox-blood red glazed terracotta blocks on the outside.

Now before I go any further, I should admit that I’m not an especially huge admirer of Leslie Green.

I know that he is held in very high regard by some – the writer Mark Mason, for instance, who makes his fondness for Green’s stations very clear in his book Walk the Lines, where he ranks the man far above Charles Holden, the only other architect in history to have exerted an influence over the Underground on a similar scale.

But I beg to differ. I am very firmly in the Holden camp. Green’s work is well-executed, to be sure. But it can also tend towards the… how can I put this? Dull. Lumpen. At times, even a bit boring.

The problem lies, I think, with those ubiquitous ox-blood blocks. I simply don’t find them particularly inspiring. There are just too many of them – not in the context of any one of Green’s slew of stations, but when taken as a whole, right across London.

Where is the variety, the flair? Where are the distinguishing features that give each of Green’s buildings their own individual personality, as well as that collective identification of belonging to the Underground?

Where, in short, is the imagination?

I concede that an understanding of uniformity inspired Holden as well. But Holden did not end up churning out precisely the same look and feel for every single one of his stations. Just journey a bit further up the Piccadilly line from Caledonian Road to see evidence of that.

Green, by contrast, seemed to opt for a uniformity of appearance rather than style. Tragically, the pressure of producing so many of these identikit stations in such a short space of time killed him. Green was given the job in 1903; five years later he was dead.

Caledonian Road, when seen in daylight, is no better and no worse than any of Green’s other surviving efforts. But come nightfall, it becomes a little bit different. And that’s why I like it. The lights are switched on and the exterior, especially the entrance, immediately assumes a bit of character it didn’t have before. It gains a personality all of its own. All the familiar motifs of Green’s work suddenly look slightly enhanced, enriched – even a bit magical.

There’s a predictability about Leslie Green’s squat, homogenised stations that, while appealing to some, can’t help but feel disappointing to others. A single innovation of art or design is laudable enough, but the same innovation, repeated more or less identically within a concentrated period of time or geographical space, dilutes not just the quality of one but of of all.

Green’s work is plentiful and enduring, a bit like London’s theatres. But at the end of the day – literally, in the case of Caledonian Road – both types of venue need a few special effects to come into their own.

Night ridings

Which station makes sailors seasick?These aren’t unique to Turnham Green, but seem to be in much better condition here than elsewhere along the District line.

Should you be at all taken by the shape and the sheen of a good bench, moreover one that incorporates both a crisp slab of signage and half a dozen windows to boot, then the station least beloved by seasick sailors* is the place to be.

There’s a quiet, gentle beauty to such atypically multi-purpose public transport furniture.

Two things are going on here. One is an appreciation of form, and the other is an attention to detail. Each complements the other, and from their marriage emerges the sort of place I’d be happy to sit for half an hour or so, cocooned from other people and the elements, with only my thoughts and a good (but not great) book for company.

Attention has also been paid to how they look as part of the station as a whole.

See how the dashes of white on the columns supporting the roof line up perfectly with the white on either end of the benches:

A bench benchmark The colours in turn mirror those on the roof itself, which is a rather fine piece of architecture in its own right thanks to that intricate threading of wood and metal.

Either tucked up inside or facing them from an adjacent platform, you can’t help but feel these benches have benefited from having that extra bit of thought, even love, put into their construction.

And that feeling is what encourages you again and again to conclude that the Underground is a thing of greatness. For where else is the same care lavished upon somewhere to rest your legs as somewhere to carry millions of people under a giant river four times or 18 metres over a valley?

*An oldie, but a goldie.

Minute precisionI didn’t go looking for these. I found them by accident while searching for something else. As is always the case in such circumstances, their discovery was all the more delightful.

I spotted two of them, though there may be more. One is in the main hall of the Hammersmith station that serves the Piccadilly and District lines. Another is on the westbound District line platform.

I received more than the usual number of inquisitive, not to say menacing, looks from passers-by when taking photos of the clocks, especially the one in the entrance hall.

About faceFunny how, whenever I’m taking these kinds of photographs, a message is “suddenly” broadcast over the station’s public address system reminding passengers to report any “suspicious-looking behaviour”.

If it’s meant to be intimidatory, it works. I always put my camera away and beat a retreat.

By the big handThe clocks are, as the pictures hopefully suggest, completely charming. The colours of the two lines the station serves – Piccadilly (dark blue) and District (green) – form the outer ring, while the 12 hours of the day are denoted by the Underground map symbols for a station and an interchange. So simple, but so effective.

Why the hands of the clock are the colour of the Central line, which runs nowhere near Hammersmith, is another matter… although if it’s been done just to make the whole timepiece look nice, that’s fine with me.